Newbie Question(s)

[Scondoro]

Hey, forgive me if things like this have been answered before--which I'm sure they have, somewhere, at some time--but I've done search after search, both here on the forums, and on google and the like, and I'm not finding anything. Sooooo, apologies in advance D:

I'm a beginning GM and, having only ever played tabletop Warhammer 40k, I'm really having difficulty wrapping my head around how you keep track of where individuals are throughout an adventure, whether it be in a dungeon, in a town, or anywhere. A lot throughout the rules is very specific about distance, spacing, etc., but I haven't found any explanations as to how you measure this and how you record it. In the rule book, there is mention of having PCs (if they choose to do so) draw out a map for themselves, but that certainly shouldn't be the sole means for keeping track of the adventurers. A few ideas I've had to take care of this is to either A) keep a 2nd copy of each map with me that I can pencil in notes about where everyone is at any given time, or B) prepare out a larger-scale map with room pieces that I can set on the table, and then utilize miniatures. The first idea would be much easier for me, as I'd just need to consistently dot out where each member is; however, as the GM, I understand my job is to make sure the players enjoy themselves the most, and having the dungeon set out before with visual aids and their miniatures and such would make their play easier for them.
Anyways, what I ultimately need is to see a game be played, or have someone who has GM experience tell me what they do when they play, and that's why I finally registered here.
So, how do you guys manage this? I really don't want to scrap the numbers and go totally "Yeah, you walk forward for a bit and then there's a biggish room on your left, and then another, smallish room on your right," but I also don't want to bust out miniatures and dungeon maps if that's not what BFRPG was designed for (if it is, though, I'm all for it!).

Thanks in advance!
Scondoro


PS: (Not sure if I made it totally clear): I've never played an RPG in this style before. I have however played Warhammer 40k tabletop and got very familiar with how that works (been over a year though), as well as all the LARPing a child could handle as I grew up. I've read the rulebook cover-to-cover (minus the huge monsters section (but that's next on my reading list!)), and will be GM for a group of completely newbie friends like myself in a week when we start the Morgansfort module. I really feel like I've got a handle on everything except the point I made in this thread.

Thanks again!

[Scondoro]

Doh, knew I'd have another question before very long:
I'm in the process of buying dice. Just got a 7 set (d4,6,8,10,12,20,%) earlier today, and will be going back tomorrow or the next day to get more. I just want to hear what dice you all usually end up feeling like you need a few more of. I'll be playing with a crowd of anywhere between 4 to 8 adventurers, and have no problem getting a bajillion more dice if you guys think it's necessary and/or really smooths out the game.
From what I'm gathering from the rules, d20s are gonna be in short supply, as well as perhaps d4s and d6s if everyone including myself as the GM needs to eventually be making dmg rolls (and encounter rolls, various number generations, etc. for me).
So before I go blowing $20 on a few fistfuls of d12s, what all do you have/use a lot of?

Thanks again, again!

[Fullmmetal515]

I use a dry earase board, as a table with minis, and have been known to cannibalize other games for dice.

Being a war hammer player, you will problibly be more comfortable with your second option, but the pen andaper method, works great if your group has a good attention span, if it a bunch of younger kids I find minis hold their attention better, as well as helps them visualize the sence.

[SmootRK]

I usually suggest everyone has at least one set of dice to themselves. Above that, I like having 4-d6, 2-d4, 2-d8, a second d10 of another color (usually reversing the color scheme so it looks like it should be part of the set) to use for percentile rolls if the set does not already include a 10's die (a die with 10, 20, 30... already printed on it). That generally works for me.... but of course, having extra dice around is always nice!

As to location... (remember it only needs to be as tactical as you want the game to run). I personally don't use mini's.
First, I generally have the players define a couple of marching orders for different situations. 10' wide corridor, single file, larger rooms, and open ground. I usually suggest being rather close to each other rather than spread out.

Second, I do exactly as you say in question. General directions given, door on left in center of 30' section of wall running N/S, room makes a 30' square, with arched passage opposite the door heading off into darkness... It all varies with the space being described. I don't hesitate to assist their mapper to get dimensions and general variables roughly correct.

When combat starts, I note everyone's location on a map, drawing a better detailed area map when necessary. I describe much of the combat without exact measurements, annotating the map when necessary as characters/monsters move about. I describe the situation as, "you rush forward to close the distance, and now you are in melee range of the creature"... all very vague unless precision seems necessary.

In a nutshell, I wing-it for most of the game, just using descriptive terms... and my players don't seem to notice or even care. When I need better detail, we sketch it out (generally all on paper, but I have played with others who like to use white boards and tac-tiles which work well when combat starts, but we were playing 3e then). But mostly, I aim to keep things moving along, rather than trying to keep the focus on precision and exact positions. If I wanted pure tactical gaming, then I would play a different sort of game.

Anyhow, Welcome!

[Joe the Rat]

If your players have a wargame background as well, I'd say break out the mats and minis for tactical. It's something familiar they can work with. If you've got a blank grid (hex or square), 5' per "square" (indoors) is a common metric. That way even Mr. "Plate mail and a pack mule" gets to move two. If you don't have, clear some space at the table and use stand-ins

Outside of tactical, as the party progresses, you should keep track of where they as a group are on your map. You'll probably want to take notes. Keep track of party order, distance, etc. Use a lot of descriptive language. But don't break out the tactical until after the battle is a definite go. No point letting them know there could be a fight until after there is one. You could certainly map as you go for them, but I'd keep it minimalist - get them use to not thinking in terms of moving on a board first.

Oh, a DM screen is handy - something that you can hide notes, maps, and 'secret' die rolls behind.

The player mapping is for them to try and keep track of where they are in the big picture (so they can find their way out, see where they've been, where traps are, etc. It's okay (for you, at least) if they make mistakes.

[Scondoro]

Hey, thanks for all your replies! That all really helps me out a ton. Tomorrow I'm doing a test-play with two of my friends, so I can finally get some hands-on experience directing, and I'll be keeping all this in mind. Despite my time in 40k, I think I will definitely be better off using the more free-interpretation style play than trying to get all specific with my friends; We have a notorious knack for getting dreadfully unfocused, especially if we spend to much time working out numbers or specificities.
And about that DM shield: I printed out the pdf download a while back, although I'm not certain what I should glue/tape it to to support it. My thoughts were some posterboard or cardstock, or thin cardboard if I had any.

[Joe the Rat]

Thin cardstock is sufficient, and you can print straight to that if your printer supports it.

I did mine on three, with the more "accessory" sheets on the outside. If you don't repeat a panel, you can always throw a splash of art in the middle - something evocative of the setting you're running.

[Scondoro]

Ooooh, that's actually a good idea: Blow up a picture of the cover art for Morgansfort and stick that on the back. Or if I'm feeling really creative, I could make an interchangeable pocket to slide images in and out of for each individual dungeon: Island Fortress; Unknown; Nameless. It'd make the shield a ton more reusable overall.

[Joe the Rat]

Ooooh, that's actually a good idea: Blow up a picture of the cover art for Morgansfort and stick that on the back. Or if I'm feeling really creative, I could make an interchangeable pocket to slide images in and out of for each individual dungeon: Island Fortress; Unknown; Nameless. It'd make the shield a ton more reusable overall.

Interchangeable art pocket. That's really good idea.

[Hywaywolf]

Personally, I only like pinpoint accuracy when it works to my PC's benefit and not to NPCs and monsters lol, Alas, since whats good for the goose is good for the gander a quick sketch of the room with minis placed roughly is what I find works best. Using too much detail and exacting measurements takes roleplaying out of Role Playing Game and just makes it a game.

I'd rather saying "I jump from the table, grab the hanging lantern ring and swing to within melee range of the orc." instead of "I run to my left 4.3' across the table and jump back toward the swinging lantern which isn't in a direct line with the orc, so that my off-angle approach allows the lantern ring to swing out in a parabola and I then release just as the angle allows me to land within melee range of the orc."